{"id":10215,"date":"2016-12-13T11:01:31","date_gmt":"2016-12-13T16:01:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/?p=10215"},"modified":"2016-12-13T13:41:15","modified_gmt":"2016-12-13T18:41:15","slug":"how-to-build-a-bass-guitar-cutting-the-nut-slot-and-prepping-the-nut-blank-part-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/repair\/how-to-build-a-bass-guitar-cutting-the-nut-slot-and-prepping-the-nut-blank-part-1.html","title":{"rendered":"How to build a bass guitar – Cutting the nut slot and prepping the nut blank part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

Below: The tools used for this step. Shown is a radius block, two F clamps, pull saw (sometimes called a japanese saw), strips of mahogany veneer, cow bone nut blank, pre-made acoustic guitar saddle, micro-chisel (about 1\/8″ wide), 1\/8″ nut seating file (the tool with orange handle), two utility blades, digital vernier caliper, sticky-back 150-grit and 220-grit, double-stick tape and the bass neck itself to the left.<\/p>\n

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Below: The current look of the nut slot, which is very narrow.<\/p>\n

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Below: A utility blade is placed into the slot as an anchor. The saddle is then placed against the blade so we can score a line in the fretboard. The acoustic saddle in this application happens to be the correct width we need for a proper distance from the slot.<\/p>\n

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Below: A line has been scored into the fretboard.<\/p>\n

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Below: Preparing to clamp the radius block to the neck for use as a saw guide. The small pieces of mahogany are stacked on top of each other and used to simulate a fret in order to prevent the block from rocking while clamped down.<\/p>\n

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Below: The block is now clamped to the neck and keeping it in place. The pull saw is being used to cut other side of the nut channel.<\/p>\n

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Below: Channel successfully cut, matching the existing cut in front of it.<\/p>\n

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Below: Using a chisel to get the larger chunks of wood removed first, and will later be smoothed out with a file.<\/p>\n

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Below: Chiseling complete.<\/p>\n

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Where are the rest of the build steps?
You can view them all here<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Below: The tools used for this step. Shown is a radius block, two F clamps, pull saw (sometimes called a japanese saw), strips of mahogany veneer, cow bone nut blank, pre-made acoustic guitar saddle, micro-chisel (about 1\/8″ wide), 1\/8″ nut seating file (the tool with orange handle), two utility blades, digital vernier caliper, sticky-back 150-grit … Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":10225,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[7],"tags":[70],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10215"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/10"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10215"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10215\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/10225"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10215"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10215"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10215"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}