{"id":9059,"date":"2016-06-10T15:17:09","date_gmt":"2016-06-10T20:17:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/?p=9059"},"modified":"2016-06-10T15:19:05","modified_gmt":"2016-06-10T20:19:05","slug":"how-to-build-a-bass-guitar-mounting-the-neck-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/repair\/how-to-build-a-bass-guitar-mounting-the-neck-part-2.html","title":{"rendered":"How to build a bass guitar – Mounting the neck – part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

This is a continuation from part 1<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Below: Neck is inserted in place. Since this particular build has a very snug fit, no clamp is needed. If the fit was not snug, a clamp would be used.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2803\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Using the same 1\/8″ drill bit in the hand drill, the rotation is purposely run backwards to mark where the 4 holes come out on the neck. Note that this technique is only used for marking. When the actual drilling takes place, a forward rotation will be used.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2804.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: The markings from the reverse drilling in the previous step.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2805.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: At this point we’ve now switched from a 1\/4-inch drill bit to 4mm, and have proceeded to enlarge the holes to a 4mm size.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2807.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Bushings are installed, and the screw has a snug fit but does not quite fit the hole. Screws are driven through with a hammer just to slightly enlarge the 4mm holes.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2809.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Screws are shown from the neck pocket side after being driven through.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2810.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Tape is applied to the 1\/8″ bit for the reason the depth is to match the exposed length of the screw (this is to prevent screw holes coming up through the top of the fingerboard.)<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2811.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Neck is taped to a caul to keep it from rocking when it is on the drill press table.<\/p>\n

Note: It is not necessary for the caul to have pre-cut fret slots. The one we used is simply the one we had on hand in the shop. Its use in this instance is just to keep the neck from moving around.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2813.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Drilling holes into the neck using 1\/8″ bit. The tape on the bit indicates what depth to stop.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2814.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Four holes all drilled successfully.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2815.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Chamfering the holes. This is to prevent wood breakage\/waste when screws are installed later.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2816.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Fully chamfered holes. Note that the holes now have a small cup-like shape at their edges, allowing a screw to “sink” into the hole without damaging the surrounding wood.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2817.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Sending the screws back out using a hammer.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2818.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Tape is applied to screw to act as a depth stop.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2819.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Soap applied to screw for lubrication.<\/p>\n

Note: While there are several ways to lubricate a screw, soap is one of the easiest because it can be applied totally dry, and soap shavings are very easy to clean up afterward.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2820.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Drilling into the base of the heel. The depth stop is in place so that drilling does not go too far.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2821.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: On to the next hole, continuing on with pre-threading.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2822.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Mounting the body to the neck.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2823.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below: Body is mounted to neck, done.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2825.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Where are the rest of the build steps?
\nYou can view them all here<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This is a continuation from part 1. Below: Neck is inserted in place. Since this particular build has a very snug fit, no clamp is needed. If the fit was not snug, a clamp would be used. Below: Using the same 1\/8″ drill bit in the hand drill, the rotation is purposely run backwards to … Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":9020,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[7],"tags":[70],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9059"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/10"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=9059"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9059\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/9020"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=9059"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=9059"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bestbassgear.com\/ebass\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=9059"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}