This is a bit of a loaded question because the answer obviously depends on the venue. The assumption made here is that you will be playing “unassisted”, meaning all you have is you, your bass, your amp setup and nothing else (meaning no PA system).
Generally speaking, you have the choice of 8″, 10″, 12″ and 15″ speakers when it comes to bass cabinets… although you’d be amazed how much projection you can get out of really small cones these days (see Phil Jones offerings for examples of that).
Now while true the 15″ delivers a “warm” sound that fills a room very nicely, the tried-and-true 10″ in 4×10 configuration projects very well with minimal effort. And where playing live is concerned, projection matters. “Warmth” of sound is nice, but it doesn’t matter for much if it can’t be heard, and that’s why projection is so important.
This is not to say that other speaker sizes cannot project because they certainly can. But many bassists swear by the 4×10 for note clarity when playing live.
Is the 10″ the best sounding speaker for bass?
This is another loaded question, but the general consensus is that bass players consider the tone of the 15″ and the even bigger 18″ speakers best for sound, but prefer the 10″ for playing live because it’s simply more usable.
In other words, it’s usually easier to be heard with a 4×10 compared to a 2×15 when trying to be heard over a drummer that’s banging the skins like a drunken caveman and playing way, way too loud. The midrange response out of the smaller 10″ really helps there.
Which speaker size have you had the best luck with when playing live?
Some prefer a single speaker with 1×12 or 1×15. Others go for the 4×10 or 6×10. Then there are those who like the large-and-in-charge 2×15. And there might even be a few of you out there using the big-big 18″ speakers.
What have you had the best luck with your live bass playing? Many like the 4×10 but maybe you’ve had better luck with something different?
I play in a classic rock covers band in small to medium sized pubs. I use a Hartke 500w head and a GK 2×10 400w cab. Cuts through 2 overdriven guitars and a thrashing drummer very well!
4×12, 1×18
I use a Barefaced 2×12 for indoor gigs and a Mesa Boogie 410 115 for outdoor, both are incredible cabs. I run each with my GK Fusion 550, and I ALWAYS cut through the mix. I have yet to find a straight 410 that can give my bass lines enough bottom to satisfy me. If I can’t feel the floor rumble, I’m not buying it.
GK RB700/ GK RBH 115 / GK RBH 210. NUFF SAID…….
I used two 4x12s back in the day. 🙂
4×10 on top, 1×15 under
using 2-4X10 cabinets
I used to use 2×15 .For the last 3 years I’ve used 4×10 with a 500 watt head.It cuts thru very well and my cabinet is pretty light.My ideal cabinet would be a 15 and 2 tens with aluminum cones.
212 x 2
Two favourite gigging rigs at the moment combine 10″ for punch and 15″ for depth …
Ashdown 4×10 combined with a 1×15 …
Or a Markbass 2×10 combined with 1×15 … surprising amonunt of power and SO much lighter for London gigs!
I was a cabinetmaker before I became disabled, so I built my rig and it’s unique as far as I know. The baffle is angled at 15 degrees to overcome phase-cancellation of standing waves off the back of the 15″ speaker. There is a ‘Port’ 2 1/2 ” tall that runs the entire bottom of the cabinet. At the bottom it is 24″ deep, at the top approx. 18″ deep. It is 24″ tall and 24″ wide (OD). The speaker enclosure is sealed with a 15″ passive radiator aiming down into the ‘Port’. It is loaded with a Peavey Black Widow 15 (400W capable) and is packed with insulation. The upper cabinet is a 2 – 10″ cab, built with similar design parameters to the 1 – 15, though no passive radiators and porting is tuned. 10″ Peavey Black Widow speakers load this cabinet. The baffle is a 10 degree ‘V’ to create cross coverage. This cab is incomplete, so I can’t tell you yet how they sound together?
The idea was based on room coverage, the two tens angle so that they cover 145 degrees, more than enough to push into the room. It stands on a pole out of the top of the 1 – 15. The 1 – 15 aims upward to bounce the long waves off the ceiling with a coverage of 115 degrees wide; which I know covers the room I’ve played it many times. It also pushes the deep bass from the port across the floor. which increases the ‘feel’ received by the audience.
I did feel the need for the two ten box, to ‘brighten’ the sound and give the rig more mid/upper punch. But the bass you feel in your chest on the rockers and boogie tunes, that comes out of the 15 box. My amp head burned, so I don’t even know what I will end up with to power the rig, as I’m not playing right now, I have a few problems. But given my choice, this rig would run on a Peavey VB 2 head, heavy, but everything you ever need.
I’m a hobbyist player; and an on-again-off-again weekend warrior (I admit it). My experience is in bars and clubs, no large venues, though I would love to hear this rig in a larger space, with DI/mic’d through the PA mixed. I think I’m onto something.
I played an outdoor gig with the Classic Ampeg set up. The Cops who came said they heard the Bass 5 Miles away. They also said while right there, it didn’t seem too loud. (They asked me to turn it down a little, but weren’t really complaining!) Ampeg SVT Classic head, and Classic 810 Speaker Cab.
210 on top, 115 on bottom. I’e tried a single 15, and a 410, liked them, too, but fell in love with the combination I have now.
High frequency horn Driver, 2- 12s, 1- 15, 1 – 18 with an electric crossover
I agree…. 4×10 top, 1×15 bottom. No tweeters. Both run full range.
Markbass Little Mark III and Ampeg 610 Classic cab when I need alot of rumble . A 410 for medium size gigs and a 1 12 cab with tweeter for small gigs.
I use a 2×10 cab for indoors small/medium venue and a Peavey USA Tour 2×15 for outdoors/large venue.
These days I go direct w/ in-ears, but several years ago it was all SWR…Goliath Sr. (6X10) w/ a bridged SM900. I loved the sound and the way it hit you in the back, but schlepping it gave me a hernia so thenI went with my Goliath (4X10) and an old SWR Redface 350. It wasn’t quite the “Man” the other rig was, but it got the job done with plenty of tone and adequate projection…I wouldn’t hesitate to use that rig today if the need arose.
As far as I’m concerned IMHO, nothing had/has the tone and tightness of punch as the old SWR stuff.
AMEN brother! ! !
SWR 550x paired with 2(Goliath 4x10s.
Whewwww!!! yeah baby.
I’ve been gigging for 25+ years, been through 4×10’s, 2×12’s, 15’s, long-throw 15’s (scoops), and a few combo amps. I’m back to using a 140w 1×15 combo (35lbs!), and it has never not been loud enough, and I can always dial in the eq for great cut. I don’t think I’ll ever go back to those heavy 4×10’s again.
I’m with you! 1-15″ (Hartke) cabs have been my mainstay for the past 30+ years. I had an SVT w. the 8-10 cab. It was plenty loud (but I had to replace a speaker -different ones – every 3 months), but tone…. I had a Sunn 1-18″ Cerwin (not Vega) folded horn I played with a Peavey 400 Musician, then Bass head. KILLER sound, but it had to be played loud to pump the air properly. It was a sound reinforcement cab after all. Not to mention the awkward weight! I had used a 12″ with a guitar head when I was into multi-effects; really projected nice & clear & handled Fuzzed bass or anything else i threw at it.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I had used an Ampeg 4-10″ ONCE for a gig & went back to my 1-15″ Hartke (kept the 4-10 at home for practice).
I mostly play fretless and 12s seem to hit the right balance between warmth and punch. My fave combination is a pair of Aguilar GS112s with a Genz Benz Shuttle 9.2. That always works for stage sound if I’m going through the mains and it’s great without mains for medium sized venues.
Maybe I’m old school, but I have used 15″ speaker’s for over 40 years and I still love the sound. I am 70 but play in two Classic Rock bands and a CCR Tribute band. My most recent purchase is a Markbass Jeff Berlin model with 1x 15 and I still have two mid-90’s Trace-Elliott 500 watt 1×15 units and I still have my 1980 SUNN 1 X 15″ with a EV 1-15B speaker. I’ve had 4×10, 18 and 12 inch cabinets but I end up selling or trading them in. The BEST bass sound I’ve ever had was in the mid-seventies where my band was the house band at the notorious “Mother’s” in Greenwood Lake, NY. There were 2 rooms with 2 bands to a stage, we played in the main room which held over a thousand people; the bassist from the other band and I each were using 1974 Rickenbacker’s in stereo ……. we ran the Lows through my 2 SUNN “Model T’s” and the highs through his SVT with 16 x 10 inch speakers …… that set-up could move walls !!!!!
The Who and Hendrix Experience used SUNN dual 15 inch cabinets for bass to match the stacks of Marshalls
Back in the day I had the Traynor tube head with an 18″ cabinet. The speaker actually faced the back of the cabinet. Traded up for a Peavey 400 with an Acoustic 2-15 cab and played it for years. Picked up a Peavey TNT130 after that and it was a mistake selling it. Now use a Fender Rumble 500 with 2×10’s and the 1-15 cabinet. I was doubtful at first but haven’t had any issues with this rig in a little over 2 years of steady (2-3) gigs a month. And it is has light weight speakers. I pump my Lakland, Fender Jazz, or my new Fender Dimension basses through this rig without any projection issues. The 10’s cut and the 15 thumps.
On-board bass preamp > split signal > Stereo 1000W Power Amp > Dual EQ split > Genz Benz 2 x 12 – Eden 410. This setup allows me to fine tune each cabinet which may change depending on venue’s sound characteristics.
Sometimes doesn’t matter if you are miking your cab or going direct thru house. Then it’s up to the engineer to mix correctly.
15 inch celestions 1 in each cab. 1 or 2 depending on venue. These are PA drivers rated at 1000w rms each. Get clarity midrange punch and bowel opening lows aplenty with my ashdown head. Never not been heard!
I play Double Bass in Big Bands and Jazz Quartets, I have been happy with my MarkBass 2×6! Just started playing the Yamaha SB200 electric upright and will probably buy a MarkBass Mini CMD121 – 1×12 Combo Amp
I always go direct in and let the sound guy deal with it.
ditto:)
These days I use a 4×10 + 1×15 for larger venues, though I put the 15 on top because it’s lighter. For smaller gigs, just the 1×15. I power them with a GK 800RB. This has served me well going on 20 years now. For really small gigs I’ll use a GK MB150 microbass combo with its single 12 and maybe an additional 1×12 to get a little more bottom.
Before that, I used a Sunn 2000S with a variety of speakers, finally settling on 9×12 in three cabinets. I still have the muscles to prove it. Back then we had limited power so we had to add speakers to get projection. These days you can fit 2000W into a shoe box and still lift it with one hand.
Whatever happened to the 1×18 in a folded horn “W” cabinet? The Acoustic 360 used to rule the bass world. I think they actually sounded louder the further away from them you were. With a backline of those you could play a coliseum and not need to run the bass through a PA. Probably not ideal for your local pub or Elks club though.
I agree the old 360/361 Acoustic amp/speakers Ruled ……….. I also wonder what happened to the huge WEST folded horn “W” cabinet ……… Mel Shatner from Grand Funk Railroad used them when they were just 3 piece and they could be heard and felt outside for miles !!!!!
the 360 with folded horn was to allow the bass waves to expand more before leaving the stage… the AMPEG SVT is more mid range less bass so no long waves… guess sounding like the last strings on a guitar is the new OKAY??
In the mid 70’s I used the Acoustic 370 w/ 2-301 reflex cabs. True the sound projection starts at approximately 20ft off stage.
Today after trying many rigs I, went back to Acoustic.
Perfection is The Acoustic B800H head, B810 cab with the famous 301 reflex cab w/ 18′ Cerwin-Vega. Power and size doesn’t mean load but quality!
I’ve used my self-modified, (for reliability) Carvin R-1000 rack in bridged mode and 1 Ampeg SVT cabinet with 8X10 or the same amp in stereo (500W+500W) with a single 15 and a 4X10 cab. My club gig rig is an Ampeg BA-210V2 with a Gallien-Krueger Neo 115-III with an MXR M87 Bass Compressor
Depends. I use my Ampeg BA-210v2 with a 15′ cab paired mostly.
It is the best sound I have.
For larger venues it is the SVT3pro with 1 15 cab plus 4×10.
I’ve lately been using a quilter bass block 800w head into my SWR Big Ben 18″ cabinet for my upright bass and Moog gig. Sounds great and it’s simple. I would like to throw my 2-10 eden on top to add some punch, but I gotta say, an 18″ speaker can really sound beautiful alone. I like it for upright and bass synth because it smooths out the harsh tones, which helps me sit better in the mix. I let the guitar player take care of the mids. At home for my jazz gigs, my mark bass 2×6 combo is great for most small venues, then I grab my mark bass 15″ combo for bigger venues. This weekend I might try my eden 2-10 underneath my genz benz 12 for an electric bass and synth gig. That might sound pretty.
4×10 with a tweeter&1×18 folded horn
I use (classic rock band)
500 watt Ashdown ABM head
2 mini Ashdown 15″ cabs for inside gigs (300 watt each)
2 mini Ashdown 4-8″ for outside (600 watt each)
If large outside I bring a Yorkville 2-10″ sub. (heavy)
Small retirement home trio band – 12″ Fender Rumble combo. very nice.
For years I have been using a Hartke 5000HA with either a lighter 4×10 Hartke Transporter cab or a 2×10 SWR Workingman… or often, both. I play from small Tiki bars, small to medium clubs to Outdoor festivals. This setup has been sufficient. I am 65 and wanted something smaller and lighter since I play blues, classic rock, R&B, Alternative music or acoustic folk with multiple groups almost nightly. I took the plunge and bought a Phil Jones Compact Suitcase and Compact 4 cabinet without hearing one, based solely on feedback on several bass forums (Risky, I know!). I now run 500 watts through a total of 8×5″ speakers (I know this sounds crazy… it did to me too!). I have used it in all the above settings (for larger or outdoor venues I run direct to PA through my trusty SansAmp Tech 21 3 channel programmable DI) and have been extremely pleased with this setup. I use my old ’74 Fender Jazz rewired in ’76 with Sunrise pickups by Pat Murphy and Tim Shaw. I like a clean, well rounded punchy tone, but also go for some growl with some high end cutting through when needed. The typical… and common comment I get is “Awesome bass sound! What is that little amp?”. I just did a show with another band with a bassist that swears by his old SVT with 8x10s. He was hesitant to use it when I emailed him ahead of time just to let him know what I was going to have set up on stage so he could bring his amp. When he heard us play, he raved about it, and used it himself. Afterwards he asked all about it since he was unfamiliar with Phil Jones. My only issue has been since it is so small (only about 2′ stacked), I have resorted to putting it up on a milk carton (now my cord crate) so I can hear it better when in less than ideal monitor situations. I realize I am losing some natural bass from it not being on the floor, but that is has not been an issue.
2- 112 cabinets by Schroeder. Each cab rated at 800 watts. I use a Sansamp PSA 1.1 pre with a Stewart World 2.1 power amp. I have used this set up in small venues and extremely large ones, always cuts through, always what I need. The 12’s seem to be much better at spreading the sound around the stage unlike a 810 cab. No mater where I go on stage, I can always hear myself perfectly.
I played a markbass amp mk 3 head thru a accugroove ‘el whappo’ jr cabinet 1×10; 1×6 and 1×12 and could not believe the tone I was getting from that cabinet. I heard accugroove is back in business and I’m gonna check the website to see if i can get one. The store Bass Specialities closed up a few years back and trying to get good bass isn’t easy. But that combination I would love to get. Probably get a Aguilar TH 500 and and a accugroove cabinet. That’ll do the job!
I played a markbass amp mk 3 head thru a accugroove ‘el whappo’ jr cabinet 1×10; 1×6 and 1×12 and could not believe the tone I was getting from that cabinet. I heard accugroove is back in business and I’m gonna check the website to see if i can get one. The store Bass Specialities closed up a few years back and trying to get good bass gear isn’t easy. But that combination I would love to get. Probably get a Aguilar TH 500 and and a accugroove cabinet. That’ll do the job!
I have a Phil Jones C8X5″ powered GK MB-800
I have a Phil Jones C8 8X5″ powered by a GK MB-800
Aguilar DB751 + Bergantino NV610 = Perfect for any style of music, big or small gigs and any practice space that requires drums. 1/2 as light as an SVT + 810 and twice the amount of tone/headroom. Done.
i use 2 avatar ii2 cabs good punch, good depth
Back in the 60’s I used a 1966 Fender Bassman amp (blackface) with a really large 212 cabinet (new size for ’66). That worked fine for high-school group and also worked fine when I first started touring with a nightclub group (5-days a week, 50-weeks a year). Then the guitarist and keyboards both bought Vox Super Beatle amps, which buried my poor Bassman.
In 1971 while playing “Little Bo’s” in Lincoln Nebraska, I visited Hospe music looking for a dual showman. They had sold out the week before so I was trying everything in the shop. The finally showed me a previous year’s model of a Standel bass amp. It was the MCIIB head (just a preamp in the head) and a SAM30B cabinet. The SAM30B was a 215 cab with 4 circular ports alongside the speakers. It was a powered cab at 250-watts and was shorter and twice as deep as my bassman cab. I could easily bury the guitar and keyboards Super-Beatle amps. Speakers were very efficient and I couldn’t dial it up beyond 9 o’clock indoors (3 on the dial). Outdoors, I could run it at 12 o’clock (5 on the dial) because there were no walls to bounce it off of.
I toured for another 2 years with that amp and it was as good as it gets – better than the acoustic 360/361 and the all-tube SVT with the 810’s. It was stolen in 1976 along with my 1965 Fender Jazz Bass.
Used a number of single 15’s since and none of them were good enough for anything beyond small club. Then I got an acoustic B410 and stacked that on top of my GK115. With some EQ’ing (the 115 was terribly boomy) I could make that stack sound good and play inside or out with my 800-watt Eden amp driving it.
In 2015, I bought DNA’s DNS-410. It’ll handle 1400-watts rms. Using that same 800-watt Eden amp, I can’t run it above 9:30 without blowing everyone out of the room. That 410 is as good as it gets and it will stand up to an 810 without any problem. The low B string on my 5 string sounds tight and clear. If I play bass chords on it, you can discern each note of the chord. The clarity and richness of the sound is just amazing.
Until I bought my DNS410, I would still have preferred my old Standel (2×15) if I had still it. But that new DNS-410 is just killer – inside, outside, loud or soft, it rocks the house and has no fear at all of a Marshall double stack of 12’s or a super-loud drummer. So, for me, my 410 is the choice.
This entire discussion is almost meaningless, because “projection” has very little to do with driver size, and very much to do with cabinet design. Drivers with the same nominal diameter can have wildly varying response characteristics, and when you combine that with the many variables in cabinet design, you are left with very few generalizations which actually hold true.
I play through a pair of Bill Fitzmaurice Jack 10s; their horn-loaded design maximizes efficiency and “projection” (whatever that term actually means) regardless of which driver they’re loaded with.
Mesa Boogie strategy 460 going thru a 4×10 cab and 2×12 cab. All mesa. Nobody ever said they couldn’t hear me and I play with loud, heavy drummers
The best sound I ever got was in the studio with a Acoustic 371 head and a Sunn 6-10’s cab with a Ricky! Punchy !!!
Most gigs I use an old Peavy 410 and when I want a little more I have a 15″ Fender Bassman that I add in.
Been playing for 52 years & my rig keeps shrinking as I get older. I’ve been using an Avatar 2X10 cab (great cabs for the $$) with a Genz Benz Shuttle. I recently picked up a Phil Jones Compact 4 (4 X 5″ drivers) & a Quilter Bass Block & running direct into the PA. 400 watt rig & the whole thing weighs less than 35lbs & cuts every room I play in. It’s a wedding/club band & we work every week so the rooms vary greatly. Indoors, outdoors that little rig cuts it just fine.
While I agree that 15’s give a nice full sound, and maybe 4X10s are “ideal,” the other consideration in playing live is portability and simplicity. Started using the Fender Rumble 500 combo last year, with 2X10 and 500 watts (4 ohms), and only 30 some pounds. Has handled everything nicely so far in multiple venues. If I need to move more air, then I’ll add a 1X15 or another 2X10.
Lately I’ve been enjoy a Bergantino CN212 with the Trickfish Bullhead 1K amp and have been pleased. Ultimately, I’m a 10″ guy, but haven’t found a light enough 4×10″ cab. I do have a Bergantino HT210 which sounds great with a MESA 800D+ for smaller rooms.
I have two custom built LDS 15,10,6.5 cabs I use for all gigs. I am of the driven generation, not of todays LAZY generation where they try to carry as least as possible. What a JOKE that is.
My amp is also 48 pound Ampeg and I have NO issue carrying.
I believe the more speakers, the better. Not for loudness… but for Fullness.
I’ve used my self-modified, (for reliability) Carvin R-1000 rack in bridged mode and 1 Ampeg SVT cabinet with 8X10 or the same amp in stereo (500W+500W) with a single ported Carvin 15″ and a ported Carvin 4X10 cab. My club gig rig is an Ampeg BA-210V2 with a Gallien-Krueger Neo 115-III with an MXR M87 Bass Compressor
Speaker size tells you nothing about the projection of sound or tone from a bass cabinet. It’s all about the design of the speaker cabinet in conjunction with the driver. In the end, play with whatever gear works for you, but don’t dismiss a bass cabinet based on looks alone. Try it out!
Two 2×10 Carvins work well for anything I do. Also, they’re easy to schlep and are more flexible for setup. I stack ’em with the 4 tens vertically arrayed for higher volume gigs. Loud!
These days I’m using a TecAmp Black Jag 900 or TecAmp Puma 900 head, Symetrix 501 compressor and Little Labs iVOG through a Hartke HyDrive 810. It’s the best live rig I’ve ever owned..I use it over the Trace Elliot, Glockenklang and SWR rigs I own because it’s tighter, projects in an outdoor setting well enough that the FoH doesn’t have to jack up the levels, only reinforce for full coverage, and it’s LIGHT WEIGHT. Some people diss the Hartke cabs, but I’m in love with this ol’ boy.
I am a pro player of over 40 years on electric and upright, with over 10,000 gigs in the New Orleans area. If you have to be louder than a 10″ speaker can provide on an upright gig, that gig should be on electric.
I used to use 6 different cabs I made myself- 2 cabs w/single 15″ Altec Lansing 4-21, 2 cabs with single EV 12L, and 2 cabs with single 10″ Hartke aluminum cones. Each cab was 8 ohms and built to specs derived from the computer EV 12L design.
I would mix and match cabs to whatever the gig demanded. I even had a junction box so that I could run 3 cabs but still have the resulting ohms fall between 4 and 8 ohms. Then Hurricane Katrina destroyed all of that gear.
When I got new gear I got a single 10″ and a single 12″ from Flitesound. This is what I use now for any gig. Loud electric gigs get both cabs, upright gigs get the 10″, and I use the single 12 on the occasional gig needing more than a 10″. That’s it.
4 10″ cabs have a pronounced mid range bump that you can’t get rid of. 8 10″ cabs are stupid unless you are playing heavy metal. Most concert rental rigs are TOO BIG. I like to use a small cab on stage at a concert or festival, like a 2 10″. That way you can push the cab up to, but not into, distortion. This gives the best bass tone without being distorted. A smaller rig on any stage make the soundman’s job easier, with monitors not as loud, and reduced low frequency feedback due to low frequency resonances. Use a small cab, push it up to the threshold of distortion but not into it, and you will get great tone, a happy sound man, and grateful fellow band members.
I recently played a small jazz room here in town with both electric and upright- I used a rebuilt 1969 Fender Showman head with a LDS 2 8″ cab. With each axe in its own separate channel, it was perfect.
Used a fender bxr 400 biamped into 18″Peveay cab with 2-12 scorpion loaded guitar cabinet with Rickenbacher for years… That cut through almost anywhere… Now I use Markbass 850 watt head into a Peveay 410 cab and Sansamp driving 500 watt amp into Peveay 2-10 cabinet for drummers monitor using a Fender Jazz… Haven’t run into place indoors or outdoors that it doesn’t sound great or cut through… Love this rig
When I have nothing but what I bring for my bass to be heard, I use two Schroeder 1210 cabinets on top of an 18″ sub. I drive the stack with a QSC PLX 3402 power amp. That’s 1,800 watts divided between the two top cabinets (2×12″, 2×10″, and 2×1″ horns) and 1,100 watts to the sub. Fills any venue with well-defined full range bass
Bigger gigs
4×10
1×15
Home /practice 2×10
Ampeg SVP-PRO pre, Mackie 1400i , Ampeg 2×12 and 2×10. Smaller venues, just the Pre and the 2×12 using one side on the amp. Larger venues, add a direct from the Pre to the house.
One or two Epifani T-112 NYC cabs. I can do anything with this modular cabinet set up.
The old Acoustic folded horns were “louder” further back, at least in the lower frequencies. That was due to wave phase cancellation. I have a pair of EV Sentry IV bottoms I use for PA subs outside. 2×12 Folded horns & they outdo a typical 18 ported cabinet. Not so portable!
In days of old I used 2×15(jbl d140. A W folded horn 18″w/ 2×8″. A Sunn Concert bass head & a Kustom 250 w/ 3band parametric eq… Now, a Genz Benz w/1-15″ and horn. With a ext. cabinet w/1-12″ and horn. With the extra cab. the wattage goes up to 500. Plenty of punch.
I’ve been playing for over 40 years and have used many rigs, during my Who tribute band era, I used an Ampeg V4b with two home made EV loaded 2×15 bottoms, I later moved to a single Acoustic 1×18 bottom, then two a Peavey bottom with an 18 and two 10’s during the eighties. Later on in my career I giged with several bands and moved to a SWR 4×8 cab, which I added an Acoustic single 15 bottom for more lower end.
Since I am getting older and am looking to downsize, I’m using a Markbass combo with 2×10, the drummer is a real pounder and I think it’s the best sound I have ever had, I might add a single 15 if I’m playing a big outside gig, but so far haven’t had to, we are playing outside gigs almost every weekend and still keeping up with that combo.
For several decades I used a pair of 1×15 cabs (EV or JBL drivers) but I always felt there was a bit of mid-range ‘quack’ from 15s.
About 15 years ago I discovered Eden speakers – their 210XST has a tighter, more even 35Hz than any 15 box I’ve used, as well as very smooth mids/highs.
For louder gigs I added an Eden 112 in top which has less low end but some useful mid-range ‘poke’.
Recently I replaced the 210 with an Epifani UL112 – not quite as nice as the Eden 210 but only half the weight, and still gives plenty of warm low end.
It’s not so much the size of the speaker as the design of the driver and tuning of the cab – my current favourite PA subs have 10s.
Here in Austin, I don’t have to compete with large guitar rigs or unrestrained drummers, so I usually use a smaller 1×15″ Ampeg combo, or if the room allows, and Ampeg 4×10 and Ampeg head. I use a pretty dark tone, not so much a piano tone anymore. Back in the 70’s, I used up to 4 2×15″ cabinets – thank God I don’t do that anymore. I let the PA do the heavy lifting.
Hey Fellas;
there are amps and then amps that wish they were ampegs, Svt4 pro best amp ever built (USA ) Run 2 classic 15′” for back yard partys,
run 6″10 mesa powerhouse 300 people .
Run Peavey 8×10 500 people,
and back to the twin 8×10 original ampeg boxes,32 ohm speakers, for 1000+ people.
Minor eq settings and always moves some air. Do it or die.
JB canada
I am a live player, have done some studio in my past but I perfer playing live. Back in the late 80’s early 90’s I had a Fender BRX bi-amped 400 watt head with a 2×10 and a 15″ each in it’s own cabinet. Then my friend who at that time was a rep for Kaman Corp. He convinced me to use his Trace Elliot’s SMX-12 2×10 combo w/ horn back in the early 90’s one night. That configuration sold me, thus selling my Fender amp, speaker cabinets, and even Fender Jazz V string ( it had Kubicki active electronics and I had upgraded to Bartolini pickups). After trying his amp and his Hamer Cruise Bass V with a 2Tek bridge (Jazz inspired and passive) I was sold! Had everything I needed, and my tone was much more defined than with my Fender kit. I was playing in a 3 piece Classic Rock band back then and need clear tones and a defined sound. After that tryout, the 2×10’s w/ a horn and a English made Trace head became my go to. I just like the early Trace stuff’s warm, defined tone even still today. Currently I am using an English pre-Gibson Trace GP-7, a Rane dual compressor with crossover, w/ 2×10 w/ horn cabinet. Bass guitar goes in to a Tech21 Sansamp VT direct box before amp/compressor and split to PA mixing board. I’m 63 and I like the modular stack approach due to weight/transporting it for other gigs. I just need to hear myself on stage, not really to project. Last year for 3 months I played without an amp on stage as a trial to explore downsizing, just direct into PA and thru monitors. Hated it! I went back to the amp after 3 months. I really feel an amp on stage helps me stay connected to the band. Without an amp on stage it was very hard for me, especially after using amps on stage since the early 70’s. I did try the challenge, but I don’t care for bass just in monitors or thru a small monitor. JMHO, and it works well for me. I am always conscience of my volume and band mate interactions.
I am always amazed by the number of folks who still think 10’s have more “punch” and “clarity”, and 15’s have more “warmth” and “low end”. Seriously? With all of the proven data that shows the only thing a speaker’s size tells you about a speaker is the size of the speaker, one has to wonder how this is still a topic of discussion. If you wanna mix driver sizes, knock yourself out, it’s your rig, your sound, and your money, but in most cases, the 4×10 is able to handle more wattage than the standard 1×15, so while your 4×10 is humming along, your 1×15 is on the brink of destruction. Unless you’re listening specifically to the 1×15, you may not hear it struggling until it’s too late. I played the “standard” 410/115 combo for years. Thought it sounded killer, until I played a rig with 2×212’s. That rig went deeper and had more articulation than my 410/115 ever thought about, and with less EQ! From that point on, I’ve only played two matching cabs or one really good cab. Right now, I’ve got two LDS 15/6/1’s and two Ampeg PN-410’s, but my gigging rig is a single Barefaced Big Twin II, which is a ported 2×12 with a horn. That single 2×12 is as loud and as deep as the two Ampeg’s and it has the same kind of articulation as the two LDS’s. It also happens to weigh less than 50 lbs, and it has super smooth casters and a well-placed top handle.
My point is that my 212 cab has all the “punch” of 10’s and all the “warmth” of 15’s. If I needed another cab(I don’t), I’d buy another Barefaced BTII. Why would I take a chance that some other cabinet with a different sized driver will pair up with this cab and sound like crap? I know this cab sounds amazing, so why wouldn’t I just buy another one? Mismatched drivers MIGHT work, but matching drivers DO work, and speaker size really means nothing…
Just so everyone doesn’t think I’m totally new school, my pedalboard is almost all analog(my loop switcher has some digital qualities), and my main amp is an all-tube Mesa Strategy(my backup amp is a Mesa D800+…;-) )
Using a 4×10 Seismic cab with a 1×15 old heavy peavey cab and Acoustic B200H head at 200 Watts used for Hard Rock and Metal, talk about moving air.
Frank A.
For the last ten years I’ve been using Hiwatt stuff.
regular 4×12 cabs – SE4122
ported 4×12 cabs – SE320
regular 2×15 cabs – SE2150
ported 2×15 cab – SE260 (very rare)
I put one of the regular 4x12s on top of one of the big ones and depending on stage size up to five of these stacks side by side.
My main amp is a DR201 head supported by up to three STA200 slave amps.
Glockenklang 2 x 10 with Glockenklang 1 x 15
topped with Aguilar AG700 Bass Head.
Suites all my needs
I’ve used everything from SVT 8×10 to Phil Jones 6×5. For me, now, I do 12″ speakers. I have a MarkBass CMD 121 Combo and matching extension cab – I love it, the sound guy loves it. If I need more, I add an EarCandy BassBomb 2×12″ with TC Electronics BH800. For really large venues, I bring both. For small venues, I use the combo alone. Never have any complaints, never hear any complaints.
I use a singe 15 in one SWR cab and a pair or 10’s in a second SWR cabinet. It’s a little more work carrying all this stuff but the footprint on stage remains the same and I get the best of both worlds in sound.
Can’t beat Accugroove ElWhappo. Great tone and punch in small or large venue. Recently purchased from accugroove to replace GK410 cab that sounds anemic compared to the El Whappo. Amp is GK 1001rb.
Yes Pete that El Whappo is something else. Had one for a couple years. I am older so its the super lite Berg stuff now. 2 cabs and head weighing in at 67 lbs total.
My rig is like this:
Wilkins PJ into AMPEG SCR-DI split through to Duncan Studio Bass Compressor to the front end of the AMPEG SVT-II. The DI’s preamp & OD line out to a Digitech LUXE and then to the tube power amp in on the back of the SVT-II.
The SVT-II is on an AMPEG PR410H that has had the crossover/horn removed from the signal path and then hard wired to 2 ohms.
While this full rig is not easy to carry in a back pack, the tone and are amazing. It is also nice having wet/dry mixing options with this tube monster!
Bogner Cabs: 1-15″ & 2-10″ Eden 500 amp
For most club gigs, just my Hartke 4×10 and Hartke 350w head cuts amazingly well. The loudest I’ve ever turned it up to was ALMOST 2 and we have a very heavy hitter of a drummer. If I were to turn it up to 2 or above, I would literally drown everyone out. It’s already a ridiculous amount of power so I can’t imagine 500w or even 1000. I personally wouldn’t spend a ton of money for tons of headroom that I’ll more than likely never use, I already have that with just 350! There’s my 2 cents.
Best of both worlds, I use a mesa Powerhouse 4-10,1-15 cab. Found that this provides a nice deep warm tone on the low side but crisp highs that really blends with guitars well. Although in most cases I direct out of my head also. A single 4-10 has bit me in the a$$ more then once when it came to live sound, just not blending the lows and mids together. The powerhouse has found its way into my heart and takes all the abuse I can throw its way on tour..
1500 watts biamped into a jack15 lite folded horn and an open back 4×10 crossed over at 180Hz. Who needs a PA?
1×18″ Acoustic 360/361 for large outside gigs. I can level the neighborhood with one of two i own. In a normal inside space i use the Bergantino B amp, HDN 1×12 under a HDN 2×10 Cuts like a knife with the most accurate reproduction of my basses i have ever heard.
Currently using Form Factor regular weighted 210 box. Best sounding cab at that size and for mobility I can remember playing. Sounds better than most common 410s I’ve used.
Using an Aguilar TH500 or Quilter Bass Block w Aguilar Tone hammer pedal or old Demeter VTBP 201 with QSC power amp.
I have a Berg 410 that sounds good too but I find I don’t really need it anymore. The Form Factor covers stage and the PA covers the rest.
I’m really enjoying my current rig:
Peavey Max Preamp biamped to a Peavey Classic Tube 60/60 Power Amp; High going to a Peavey Classic 410e guitar cab; Full-range going to a Gallien-Krueger MBE 212 4-ohm cab.
I am thinking of splitting my signal even further with a Peavey 160 watt head (Alpha Bass, Roadmaster, Mace VT) full range into my MBE 212 and then splitting the high from the Peavey Max into the 60/60 and then into two (running stereo 8 Ohm/8 Ohm) or four (two pairs of 16 Ohm) 410e’s.
I’m very surprised that most bass players still use 1 x full range cab or a combination of 2 x full range cabs of different speaker configurations. In the early 80’s I switched from using full range cabs to a sub and top cab employing an electronic cross over. When I made the switch it was magic. I’ve used a few different combinations. 2×18″ for a sub with a 2×10″ on top crossed over around 100htz or 2×15″ on the bottom with 2×10″ on top. It’s the only way to go. Clarity, punch, lots of bottom end and high end definition. You’ve got to move air and that’s not going to happen playing through a 2×10″ cab. And most 2×10″ can also have a tweeter as well. It’s a set up that’s bassically a small P.A. system. At present I’m only using a 1×15″ cab for my sub and it’s really not enough for the bottom end. I plan on adding another 1×15″ cab to beef up the situation. If you want to heard over the drummer and a guitar player you’ve got move air. And it’ not just about volume. It’s about clarity & projection. Get yourself a sub and a top cab and an electronic crossover. And, a good quality rack mount compressor. The real secret to a balanced attack. It’s not overkill. It’s the reason every soundman tells me my bass sounds great. (Fender Jazz Bass with EMG’s)
Rick,
I have the Quilter Bass Block, and Eden 4 10, a 1 15 and a 112. What cross over would allow me to do as you suggest?
thanks,
Harrison
210 and 115.. but sometimes 210 and on really small gigs a 110. If the stage is large enough and you can step away from your cabs you will benefit. But standing too close means your sound doesn’t mature and then there is a tendency to crank the volume so you can hear yourself. In that case 8 inchers do make sense.
1 Cab 4X10, 1 Cabs 1-15″ split left right stage will do the job big halls , 4X10 small halls, (club)
the size and shape of the room determine what speaker/s I use. bass will follow walls and find its way to places that overpower the rest of the band. I have over the years collected a sundry of setups. 2-10 cerwin vegas get the job done in small to medium rooms. 2-12 cerwin vegas work best in medium rooms. 2-15 cerwin vegas are good in big places. 4-12 ev sro’s work great in big places. 2-15 jbl’s work good outside. for most of my gigs I use an ampeg 1-15 cabinet placed at an angle towards the drummer so it isn’t throwing straight at the audience. it also depends on if the audience is sitting or up dancing and how loud ambient noise/conversation is. there are many factors that govern how the bass is heard in any given venue.
Right now my go to rig for medium size gigs is Genz-Benz Streamliner 900 thru either Bergantino HDN112 & HDN210 (both front ported), or if I want to piss off my drummer, Markbass 151 Standard (rear ported) & MB 210 (front ported). I actually prefer the sound of the MB stuff over the Bergantino. The Berg stuff seems to fart out at a lower volume, at least to me. I play an American P, and a Lakland Daryl Jones Jazz. I’d like to find one of the older MB 1-15’s that’s front ported though. Not many around. Smaller gigs get the Markbass Little Mark 500 w/ either MB 2-10, or MB 2-10×2. The new rare earth magnets are a godsend to my back. Nothing I have weighs over 45lbs. I’m not LAZY, I’m old. But I’ll still be playing when I’m 70 when someone hauling an Ampeg refrigerator is in traction. There’s your JOKE.
I use a Boom Bass Cabinets Tank 212. Forward firing 12″ FatialPro and a downward firing 12″ FatialPro. I’ve played in venues as large as 400 seats with my Bugera Veryon 1000 with no PA support and it handles it very well. Love the tone and the projection. My large rig is an Ampeg setup that was given to me after my friends dad passed away: SVT 4pro, Ampeg Heritage 410 and Heritage 115…thunderous doesn’t even begin to describe the tone lol…..
Energy Group 1×15″ or 2×15″
I was a 4X10 purest for the longest time until my girlfriend (now wife) leaned on me about trying 4X12. Totally sold. Thank you G-K girl for opening my eyes.
Playing over 40 years. I’m now using an Orange Bass Terror 500 powering an Orange SP210 (2×10″ Isobarik) on top of an Orange SP212 (2×12″ Isobarik). It gives me the best tone ever for stage use. It sits on an Auralex platform for isolation from the stage. Direct out from the head goes to the PA which has 8″ EV tops and 12″ EV subs on FOH. Plenty of bass for the audience.
I use a custom made 4×10 with Eminence Delta 10″s and a LDS 15″ with a 6″ mid driver. I really like that. I am wanting the new Accugroove El Whappo..
Greenboy Audio F112 & F212
Amps I run; Ampeg SVTII, Ampeg SVP-CL+SVP1600, Genz-Benz STM-900. Either cabinet sound best w/ the Ampeg SVP-CL+SVP1600.
2 x 12″ aguilar sl112, very light and teamed up with the TH500, it has the capability to keep up with the loudest drummers and guitar amps
I run a fairly unusual rig of an SWR Mini Mo’, the Preamp-only version of their “Mo’ Bass” head with integrated Studio-Quality Effects designed by the legendary, late & great Mo West and SWR’s (…and as a Bassist, “The Aristrocrats”/Mike Keneally/Joe Satriani/Steve Vai/Dethklok’s/Numerous Others) amazing Bryan Beller, who doubled as Professional Bassist and SWR’s Amp Tester-to-SWR Vice President over his time with them from ’97-to-’05. I have a pre-Fender SWR Interstellar Overdrive and a Pedalboard full of Effects for Rock, Metal & more esotericly-sonic gigs, but for ease-of-use, its amazingly light weight (when teamed with my Class D Power Amp, my total Rack Weight is 25 lbs… and that’s with a circa-2003 Amp) and setup, the Mini Mo’ with its built-in Tube Overdrive/Distortion, Sub-Octave, Envelope Filter, Additional EQ Section & Chorus, dedicated Pedalboard that can trigger both Individual Effects as well as 5 pre-programmed “patches”, and multitude of Sends and Back Panel options is my “First Call” setup.
Because of its very nature with its built-in Effects, the Mini Mo’ has a function titled “Dual Mode”, in which you can split your Clean Signal and your Effects Signal (…and choose from pre-EQ, post EQ and other options) with the press of one button and send them not only to different cabinets but quite easily send the FOH a 50/50 split and *know* that your Effected Tone will not only make it into the mix, but be heard as well! I run in “Dual Mode about 97% of the time, so I had to pick my Cabinets somewhat accordingly. My Clean Signal is sent to an Avatar Neo 2×10″ cab while the Effected Signal goes to an Avatar Neo 2×12″ cab with the Tweeter cut, which is needed to cut off some particularly ugly sounds from the high-end of the Overdrive/Distortion and Envelope Filter when I engage them. However, I’ve found between the responsiveness of the 2×12″ is enough from the Speakers alone that I don’t miss the high-range of its Tweeter, especially when the 2×10” is taking care of my Clean Signal and has plenty of tweeter-ed full-range coverage. Needless to say, I’m certainly not crying when I play harmonics. 😉
For “Downstairs Practice” (the above Rig resides in the “Music Office” for my Better-Half & myself), lower-volume rehearsals and gigs, and specifically teamed with my Fishman Pro-EQ Platinum Bass EQ/D.I. for my Taylor AB-2 Acoustic Bass Guitar, I use my Ibanez Promethean P3110 1×10″ Combo Amp. I’ve stated before that this is the “Markbass Killer”, coming extremely close sonically at a significantly lower price-point. Putting out 240 watts from its full-range 10″ Speaker with HF Soft Dome Tweeter & Passive Crossover, 300 watts with an additional 8-ohm speaker, a built-in pre/post-EQ XLR D.I. for Live as well as Recording purposes and both 1/8th Input & Headphone Output for silent practicing to music sources, this is all I could ask for a Amp easily carried by one hand at about 23 lbs unpacked from shipping.
Primary Basses:
– Custom Spector Euro Bolt-On DLX FM/EX Fretted & Fretless 4 & 5-Strings & Custom Spector Legend 6-String (Nordstrand “Big Single” & “Big Blade” Pickups, Aguilar OBP-3SK/PP Preamps & Hipshot HB6Y Y-Key Ultralight Tuners)
– Mike Lull Modern 4, 5 & Custom PJ/JJ24-5 (routed for both 5-String P/J & J/J Pickups)
– Fender American Deluxe Jazz Bass IV (w/ Nordstrand “NJ4” Single Coil Pickups, Aguilar OBP-3SK/PP Preamp & Hipshot Type-A Fender-Mount String-Thru Bridge)
– Fender Deluxe Zone P/J 4-String (22-fret J-Bass Neck, EMG “GZR” Geezer Butler Passive P/J Set & Aguilar OBP-3SK/PP Preamp, Black Gotoh GB-7 Tuners & Hipshot Type-A Fender Mount String-Thru Bridge)
– Epiphone Ltd. Ed. Jack Casady Semi-Hollowbody in Silverburst (w/ Black Hipshot SuperTone 3-Point Bridge & HB6C Cloverleaf Ultralite Tuners)
– Music Man USA-Built SUB Sterling 4-String
– Chapman Stick (10-String in Light Laminated Bamboo w/ EMG ACTV-2 Pickup Module and “Rust” Linear Inlays)
Addendum: I left out my Avatar SB112 1×12″ Cabinet, which I found used at my local Guitar Center and was able to haggle down the price to the point where I was able to use the savings to purchase the Neodymium 12″ Speaker from Avatar and upgrade the stock Delta 12LF Ceramic speaker with their “Deltalite 2 2512″ Neo Speaker. It has since given me the option of running a smaller 2×10″/1×12” setup but still keep the fundamentals of my “Dual Mode” setup. Also, as it is equipped with an 8-ohm Speaker (which all my Speaker Cabinets are, as I feel it gives me the most flexibility and stays away from any possibility of a two 4-ohm Cabs setup “running hot”) I can use it as an Extension Cabinet with my Ibanez Promethean 1×10″ Combo Amp to get its full 300 watt output and vastly increase the speaker area.
… running (2) 4×10 SWR Goliath III’s with a Peavey Max 750 amp. It’ll Giterdone. BUT, looking to SELL or TRADE for a smaller rig. Also have a California made SWR bass 350 amp in “like new” condition. BTW, totally enjoyed reading these posts. Question: anyone else have experience with “Barefaced”? Thump-on!!! … //d
I have played through my Acoustic model 320 head and model 408 cabinet since 1979. The head is 2 channel 300 watts of monster tone and the cab has 4- 15 inch eminence speakers.
Nothin Projects like that head and cab. Period.
Rick Lazarof I believe you have pretty much hit the nail on the head. My current rig project is a 2×15 bottom cab for low end and a 2×10 for upper mids and the top end. i really like splitting the frequency ranges up into separate cabinets. Much more defined tone with great projection. I have to have 15s. I need to feel bass as much if not more than hear it.
For cone drivers, the real answer is about throw, frequency and cone size.
The larger the cone, the longer the throw at higher frequencies on axis. Less off axis higher frequency coverage though. A less uniform “power response” off axis.
This is a simplification of course.
So, what is your application? Cover requirements, high freq requirements, room, etc.
One 2×10 and one 1×15 without crossover ???? It’s terrible! To use a speaker with different dimensions it is necessary to use a bi-amp system
i have a 1973 carvin 950 folded horn cabinet with twin JBL 140s its a beast very load and powerful
When I played professionally, I used one or two (depending on the venue) Ampeg SVT 8-10 cabinets I purchased around 1978 powered by a SUNN Coliseum 880 that I got in 1974 and still have to this day. Sadly, I sold the 8-10s.
I use a GenzBenz 750GBE amp I have now, in mono. I have two GK 400RBs that I ran stereo with a variation of cabs depending on the room or no room at all. I have an old Ampeg V6B 2×15 cab loaded with EV Pro 15s, a GenzBenz Uber 4×10, and a SWR 2×10. I have used the 2×10& 4×10 together, the 2×10 and the 2×15 together. It just depends on the room. The one combo I haven’t tried is the 4×10 & 2×15 together, due to the 4×10 being a 4 ohm cab and the 2×15 being an 8 ohm cab. Thinking about rewiring the 2×15 to 4 ohms. I love the 2×15 and I love the 4×10, so the thought of them together is something I really want to experience. I also have a very old Sunn cab that is a 12″ & 18″ combo cab it’s pretty wicked by itself.
genz benz 4×10″ 4 ohm box with a ampeg 350th solid state amp for rock
gk 200rb 1-12″ combo amp with fretless and upright for blues, standards etc.
fender, squire fretted & fernandes p & j fretless bass guitars , ns wave 4 electric doghouse
A few general observations I’ve learned that work for myself over the last 45 years about how bass cabinets with different speaker configurations “PROJECT” in various live situations. Keep in mind, these are just opinions, and really only really mean anything to me personally based on my experiences.
#1- What you’re hearing on stage is almost nothing like what the audience is hearing in almost any venue short of a 10×12 bedroom. Thank you god for the sound guy, or gal. My stage sound is really more all about me, while the room is a whole different matter. Same as doing studio sessions, I’ll D/I, Every. Single. Time. Let the engineer do their job.
#2- a single 15″ speaker cabinet is NEVER going to be durable, nor particularly satisfying for nearly any unsupported gig in a band situation. I’ve used a single 15 cab, or other small combo for dinner gigs, but never without PA support to spread the sound. If your rig is too small for the job, you’re probably not going to make friends with the sound guy if he’s dogging all the monitors just to give everyone a decent stage mix. If it’s an in-ear mix, hahaha, problem solved. Just D/I and break out the cardboard stacks.
#3- if clarity, tone, headroom are even remotely important, driving bass cabinets with anything less than 700-800w is uncivilized, .
#4-designs using multiples of same sized speaker appear to sound better and more efficient for whatever reason, no matter what size speaker. That’s just me and my ears. I’ve used multiples of some really good sounding full range and 2/3 way bi-amped PA cabinets for bass. Curiously, bigger the show, the more the PA mains and subs is mostly what I hear. I like that..a lot…Feel the POWER.
#5-no matter how small the gig, ALWAYS have bass and kick in the PA. That’s all about the spread in the room. On a dinner gig, if the table for two right in front of the band can’t romantically converse over their $200 meal, then it’s likely you won’t be playing there again. Ever. The stage gear essentially becomes just personal monitors for you and your bandmates. If the drummer complains, get a real drummer. hahaha, just kidding….. not. Low volume is a challenge for drummers, and YA, the bass guy too.
I’ve never personally owned an SVT rig, but, it’s been on the backline of most outdoor shows I’ve done. For a reason. IF you have roadies, a good amp tech,, and a really big vehicle..yay for you.. That’s the advice I get from folks with those rigs…..I have yet to try the 2×12 cabinet configurations, but they seem to be a promising option for several good reasons. Ditto for the Phil Jones stuff, but price would make that a rule-out anyway.
I’ve owned all kinds of stuff over the years. Big rigs, small rigs, crazy rigs cobbled together from PA gear, cute little combos, etc. My current rig is a Mesa Boogie Powerhouse Jr cab and a Kustom 1200w head, which honestly, leaves me wanting, but gets the job done. For living room rehearsals, I’ll carry an Eden Nemesis 2×10 combo and hope the drummer doesn’t get crazy. Looking back over the years, my most versatile rig utilized an Ampeg SVT Classic 808he speaker cabinet. It was simple, projected well, and sounded good with anything you powered it with. Sadly, Ampeg made it impossible to buy the proprietary Eminence 32ohm replacement drivers, either from Ampeg, or Eminence. So it sits in the warehouse with other obsolete junk.
In my experience, for me, for ANY live gig, indoors or out, supported or not, the 8×8 cabinet PROJECTED the best, hands down was the best all around solution. No, the DEEP bass won’t go to the very back of a 800-1000 seat venue without the PA, but the bass will still sound pretty good on it’s own, and the sound guy will tell you to turn it down. In 300-600 seat venues, it’s pretty much all there. Plus, you get all the pinched harmonics and controlled feedback you could ever want on stage. Works with PA amps, powerful or not so powerful bass guitar heads, tube heads, transistor heads, or, as I found out for 75% of my indoor gigs, even with the grossly under powered *SWR Baby Blue. Something magical about those multi-driver arrays…. Compact, loud, sounds great.
So there it is. It’s a compromise. There is no one best, but an 8×8 cabinet might be pretty close on the cheap. Simple, versatile, excellent projection, compact, efficient, more or less easy to transport, and really good tone.
Happy Trails.
Mel Schacher !
For the last 4 years, I have been gigging with a custom built bass amp combo I made.
It has 4 x 6.5″ kevlar cone drivers and a 1″ horn on a 12″ flare, a SMPS (power supply) and a 500watt class D power amp, driver with a 2 x tube preamp/passive EQ.
This thing seriously rocks small to medium venues, it sits on a kick-back amp stand, and can be carried with one hand (cabinet made from a composite ply/resin (formply) material.